Leeds & Manchester Left Bank Claret Tastings @ Hotel Malmaison

Corporate Fine Wine TastingTwo of the Lay & Wheeler team are currently heading home following our superb tastings in Manchester and Leeds. The two evenings of Left Bank Fine Wines held at Hotel Malmaison’s two venues, Mal One  & Mal Two – were huge successes and we’ll add a more detailed post later on the proceedings.

A big thank you to all our guests and to the Majestic staff who helped out – Ben from Chester, Hamish from Wilmslow, Rachel from Chapel Allerton and Jonathan from Harrogate. We’ll fill you in on all the details, especially the wines, on our return later today. If you have an idea for a corporate or private Fine Wine tasting or have any wine-event related questions our friendly and knowledgeable staff will be delighted to answer your questions and provide any advice you might require.

Adrian Heaven, Senior Wine Consultant

Loire Valley: A fresh perspective

Lay & Wheeler Loire Valley Wines 2010 & 2011

 

During an all-too-short holiday near to Saumur last year, I was lucky enough to be able to squeeze in a few winery visits with wine-brokers Charles and Philippa Sydney. Having lived near Chinon for the best part of twenty years, few know the vineyards and winemakers of this region better than this husband and wife duo – who themselves produce wines under the La Grille label which are frequent best-sellers at Majestic Wine.  Their boundless enthusiasm for the wines made here ignited my own interest in this vast and beautiful winemaking region and I am delighted to bring you our first Loire Valley offer in a number of years.  Amidst the somewhat challenging Bordeaux 2011 campaign, this offer provides a fantastic array of age-worthy wines across the two most recent vintages (2010 and 2011).

Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc thrive in the Loire like in no other region in the world, creating wines that range from crisp and refreshingly dry, rich and oak-influenced, to the hedonistically sweet.  In the hands of sensitive growers, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir also excel, producing fine infusions of raspberry and cherry fruit that can demand years in the cellar to show their true worth.  The one defining signature of all these wines is their backbone of acidity – or nervosité.  Loire wines have an unmistakable vibrancy that means many of them age remarkably well.  This is not only true for the moelleux wines of Vouvray, but also the best Sancerres and Chinons.  For wine-lovers and wine-collectors alike, there is much to tempt them here.

There is great value to be had across the range. However, I have managed to whittle-down my favourites which I have listed below.  Incidentally, all of the wines in this offer would be a fine addition to any cellar, so I hope you will discover something here that takes your interest.  For more information, please call our sales team on 01473 313300 who will be happy to help you.

Edwina Watson

Edwina’s Loire Picks

2010 Savennières Roche aux Moines, Domaine des Forges
£54
per case of 6 bottles in bond
This is a significant cuvée that displays all the power and complexity of the best Savennières with clear vineyard definition.  Hand-harvested in a series of ‘tries’ to ensure perfect levels of ripeness, the wine then undergoes partial malolactic fermentation in double-barriques which helps to add considerable body and richness; this is what the French would describe as ‘gras’.  Classic Chenin aromas of apples and lemons are accompanied by wonderful creamy oak on the nose.  The palate is very precise and round but with sharp, poised acidity and a unique toasty, nutty quality.  Elegant mineral notes combine with its great density to create a wine that is balanced and supremely impressive.  This is a truly exceptional dry Chenin that will provide much enjoyment in the mid-term. 

2010 Sancerre La Moussière Rouge, Domaine Alphonse Mellot
£102
per case of 6 bottles in bond
The warm and ripe nose of summer berries, raspberries, strawberries and rhubarb is elegantly held in place by perfectly balanced and sophisticated oak.  This enticing scent leads to a palate that is wonderfully concentrated with beautiful depth; pure, sweet red fruit and spice notes.  The tannins provide precision, grip and finesse which is supported by a backbone of vibrant and fresh acidity.  This is an extremely impressive Pinot Noir from the Loire that is both refined and eminently significant. 

2010 Chinon Les Charmes, Domaine Charles Joguet
£66 per case of 6 bottles in bond
This cuvée comes from old vines in the village of Anché which provide a dense aroma of plum, blackberry and red cherry alongside redcurrant and herbal, leafy notes encased in a pleasant background of oak.  The palate is firm, with grippy, well-integrated tannins which gives an impression of neatness supported by its bright acidity.  Strawberry and raspberry marry with a hint of violet to create a beautifully defined and lifted finish. 

Bordeaux 2011- Latest Releases

Bordeaux 2011 En Primeur - Latest Releases

With a bank holiday in France last week, yesterday saw a deluge of releases from some of the top names in Bordeaux. The wines came out so thick and fast that it was hard to keep track, so here is brief a summary of releases:

Léoville-Barton was one of our most anticipated releases, having produced a wine that is genuinely excellent and not far behind 2010 in terms of quality. The price at £480 per 12/75cl makes Léoville-Barton the best value Second Growth by a country mile.

Next up were the two Pichons, who have both produced wines of exceptional quality cementing their reputation as “super seconds”. I would be splitting hairs as to which I preferred, with Pichon Baron a more flamboyant and hedonistic style and Pichon Lalande a seriously classy archetypal Paulliac. Both these superstar Paulliacs were released at £378 per 6/75cl, pricing below 2008 current prices.

Rauzan Segla produced one of the wines of the vintage and certainly one of the best Margaux. We had Rauzan Segla rated just behind Château Palmer and Château Margaux, so at £297 per 6/75cl it is definitely worth considering.

Léoville-Poyferré are making some of the most modern and thrilling wines from the left bank and after receiving their first perfect Parker score in 2009, are continuing the good work in 2011. A large scaled and polished St-Julien that is in my opinion a much better wine than 2008 and is cheaper too.

Grand-Puy-Lacoste released at £398 per 12/75cl and was bang on this year. I absolutely loved 2011 GPL and hands down preferred it to Lynch Bages which is nearly twice the price. From the same stable comes Haut-Batailley, which I always find to be a reliable source of elegant and delicious claret and at £240 for 12/75cl it is very good value indeed.

Other releases included Réserve de la Comtesse at £237 per 12/75cl, Clos Fourtet at £267 per 6/75cl (a good wine but expensive) and Clerc Milon at £378 per 12/75cl. Composed by Al Luffingham

2008 Gaja – Icon & Iconoclast

Initially iconoclastic and now, himself, iconic, Angelo Gaja is famed world-wide for making some of the finest wines to come out of the Barbaresco region. Of course, three of them – Costa Russi, Sori San Lorenzo and Sori Tildin – cannot be labelled as Barbaresco, due to them containing 5% Barbera in the blend. 

I cannot claim to have tasted Gaja very often, but I have had the chance to taste this vintage twice. Once in the office here and a second time at a seminar with Gaia Gaja (Angelo’s daughter). While the quality of the wines was immediately evident, passion is also infectious and being able to hear Gaia talk about the wines, the location, the region and her father’s vision, was undoubtedly inspirational. 

These are wines that wear their hearts on their vinous sleeves. From the fragrant attractive Barbaresco to the more masculine and austere Sori Tildin, these are wines that express their place, their vintage and their maker utterly.

 2008 Barbaresco
£498 per case of 6 bottles in bond
100% Nebbiolo. Gaia Gaja describes this as a demonstration of the art of blending, drawn as it is from 14 separate vineyard parcels. Pure on the nose, with notes of red cherries and wild strawberry. On the palate, this immediately shows great freshness, which enlivens fine, structural tannins and elegant, refined red fruit. Mouthwatering on the finish, very moreish.

 2008 Costa Russi
£1140 per case of 6 bottles in bond
With 5% Barbera included in the blend to add fragrance and colour, this again shows a pretty, floral nose. The palate shows delicate plum and cherry fruit, with hints of spice and blossom, framed by finely expressed tannins that give an almost-silky mouthfeel. Beautiful. 

2008 Sori San Lorenzo
£1140 per case of 6 bottles in bond
95% Nebbiolo, 5% Barbera. Compelling on the nose, with dark berry notes, bramble and a hint of coffee. More austere on the palate than the Costa Russi, yet showing layers of deep black fruits, vibrant acidity and quite structural tannins. In need of time to unwind, but already a beautifully elegant example of Nebbiolo.  

2008 Sori Tildin
£1140 per case of 6 bottles in bond
95% Nebbiolo, 5% Barbera. Black fruits are to the fore on the nose of this wine, with hints of graphite and woodsmoke. There is an immediate sense of freshness on the palate, balancing tannins that are quite bold in nature, but ripe and fine. Notes of minerals, graphite and leather overlay a core of dark berry fruit. Brooding, poised and showing huge potential.

Kat Wiggins  

2011 Bordeaux – this morning’s releases

2011 Château Margaux, 2011 Pavillon Rouge, 2011 Château Lynch-Bages, 2011 Château d'Issan, 2011 Château Gloria, 2011 Château Palmer, 2011 Alter Ego de Château PalmerThe words “flurry” and “activity” haven’t exactly been used much so far in the 2011 Bordeaux en-primeur campaign; however it would appear that today is the turning point, as we have had a number of important releases first thing this morning.

The biggest names to have released are – at about half the price of the 2010 – first growth Château Margaux (and its second wine Pavillon Rouge, which has been selling out fast), “Flying Fifth” Lynch-Bages and candidate for Wine of the Vintage Château Palmer (along with its stunningly seductive second wine Alter Ego). It would be unfair, however, given the excellent effort produced by the team at Château Gloria, not to mention it as worthy of consideration – this was one of our favourites with regards to value for money and a very pretty St Julien indeed.

2011 Château Margaux, 1er Cru Margaux
£1900.00 per case of 6 bottles in bond

When asked whether the Château was having to change anything to compensate for climate change, Marie Descotis, who heads up the Château’s research and development department, explained that their terroir is proving to be perfect for the somewhat warmer and drier conditions over the last few years, allowing their Cabernet Sauvignon to flourish. The blend this year is made up of 86% of this Cabernet, 10% Merlot and the rest split between Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The resultant wine is the most concentrated they have ever produced, yet it is also incredibly poised and balanced. Dark berry fruits, notes of woodsmoke and spice come through on the nose. The palate is immediately fresh and pure, with a layered sense of fine tannin, depth and power. There is a graphite-like grip to the structure, a definite minerality and a core of cool-natured, classic fruit. Despite the concentration and density in the wine, the balance is such as to give it an almost approachable sensation. Beautiful rather than pretty, this is an elegant and refined wine that shows what could be achieved in 2011 with great terroir and a deft hand.
Drink 2021-2037

2011 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux, Margaux
£475.00 per case of 6 bottles in bond

Headily aromatic on the nose, with notes reminiscent of black forest gâteau, a fragrance imparted by a higher proportion of Petit Verdot than usual. On the palate, there is delicious freshness and a lovely sense of purity to the fruit. The tannins are fine and well-integrated, giving structure to cassis and morello cherry fruit. This has a lot of density and power, which Marie Descotis attributes to the drought and the small size of the grapes as a result. She believes that this has never before been as close in style and quality to the grand vin.
Drink 2018-2027

2011 Château Lynch-Bages, Cru Classé Pauillac
£375.00 per case of 6 bottles in bond

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and the rest split between Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Opulent on the nose, with notes of dark berries and pure cassis. On the palate, this shows a plush texture, driven by velvety-fine, but quite robust tannins. There is a substantial swathe of ripe fruit and a touch of sweet vanillin from 75% new oak barrels, giving this a rounded and pleasing mouthfeel. Intense and balanced, with good definition and concentration, this is another good effort from the Cazes stable.
Drink 2019-2035

2011 Château d’Issan, Cru Classé Margaux
£350.00 per case of 12 bottles in bond

Inviting on the nose, with aromas of blackcurrant leaf.  A winning combination of finely-grained tannins and freshening acidity combined with a good intensity of fruit at the core, giving this a layered texture and an attractive finish.
Drink 2017-2025

2011 Château Gloria, St-Julien
£245.00 per case of 12 bottles in bond

A very impressive and stylish wine from this excellent property.  Fresh blackberry, bramble and damson fruit combine to create a lovely, rich, juicy and warming scent with earthy undertones.  The tannins are bold, appealing and well-integrated, providing a somewhat suave texture that is balanced by equal amounts of grip and freshness.
Drink 2015-2024

2011 Château Palmer, Cru Classé Margaux
£875.00 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2011 may not be 1961, however in the case of Château Palmer the two vintages could have in common a Grand Vin that could be considered as one of the wines of the vintage. We left the Château gushing about the spicy, almost animal complexity of the dark fruit nose, the incredibly rich palate, silky texture and flavours of kirsch, blackcurrant leaf, clove and leather, the incredibly fine-grained tannins and indeed the brilliant concentration and impressive length… In five short words, we liked it – a lot!
Drink 2021-2035

2011 Alter Ego de Château Palmer, Margaux
£430.00 per case of 12 bottles in bond

Alter Ego is fast becoming a serious wine in its own right and is coming out of its Grand Vin’s shadow. With great weight and silky smooth texture, a juicy fruit character with a tight tannic structure, the plummy and spicy fruit is somewhat reminiscent of black forest gâteau. On the finish, spicy and savoury notes come through to bring even more interest to this lovely wine.
Drink 2018-2030

Ludovic Surina

Bordeaux 2011 – New Release: Malescot-St-Exupéry

After the excellent value of yesterday’s release of Pontet-Canet, it seems other properties are following suit, with reductions on their prices that make the wines a far more appealing prospect. Malescot-St-Exupéry was described as “opulently” styled by Robert Parker, giving it 91-93 points.

2011 Château Malescot St-Exupéry, Cru Classé Margaux
£369 per case of 12 bottles in bond
Behind a somewhat muted nose lies a deliciously spicy and rich palate, with a wonderful texture and a juicy mouthfeel. A big wine with fine supporting tannins.  Drinking: 2016-2032

2011 Château Malescot St-Exupéry, Cru Classé Margaux, £369 per case

Bordeaux 2011: New Release – Château Guiraud

Château Guiraud tasting Bordeaux April 2012There is little dispute that 2011 is a great vintage for Sauternes and this is evident in the great quality to be found in Château Guiraud. Organic since 1996, the property is currently making itself into a centre for research into organic methodology and different clones of Semillon and Sauvignon-Blanc. In 2011 they lost 40% of their crop to frost, but the remaining fruit has created a wine that shows appealing complexity and vibrant fruit. 

2011 Château Guiraud, Cru Classé Sauternes
£165 per case of 6 bottles
£174 per case of 12 halves
Notes of grapefruit rind, honey and a touch of oak-spice are evident on the nose, mirroring a palate that shows a vibrantly Sauvignon Blanc nature. Mouthwatering citrus characters and acidity balance out rich, botrytis notes of acacia honey and orange peel. Effortlessly beautiful and pleasingly pure on the finish.
Drinking: 2015-2030

Bordeaux 2011: New Release – Pontet Canet

2011 Chateau Pontet Canet One of the undisputed stars of Pauillac over the last few vintages, Pontet Canet in this vintage has been described by Robert Parker as “of first-growth potential”. Releasing from the Château at a very reasonable price level, we are very pleased to recommend this property in this vintage.

2011 Château Pontet-Canet, Cru Classé Pauillac
£366 per case of 6 bottles
When asked if he was happy with his wine in this vintage, serious winemaker Jean-Michel Comme replied that “when people begin to be happy, it is the beginning of the end” and that he was therefore never entirely content. Nonetheless in light of the challenges faced in this vintage and problems experienced by other Châteaux, he deserves to feel more than a little pleased with himself regarding the quality of the 2011 Pontet Canet. Darkly fragrant on the nose, it is an incredibly concentrated wine, yet one that wears its depth and power very lightly. There is a substantial tannic structure here, yet it is so well balanced by acidity, fruit and a marked minerality, that the lasting impression is of a perfectly poised wine; very much the iron fist in a silk glove.
Drinking: 2020-2035

Bordeaux 2011 New Releases: Hosanna,La Fleur Petrus & Batailley

JP Moueix, Château Batailley, Robert Parker, Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Château Hosanna, 2011 Château Belair-Monange, 2011 Château BatailleyIt’s certainly not a campaign that’s in a hurry to get underway, but yesterday (not a bank holiday in France) saw the release of the top wines from the Moueix portfolio and also Château Batailley, always a good value purchase for those seeking reliable, classically proportioned claret.

The wines of JP Moueix are always of the highest quality and in this vintage, which favoured the right bank, there is no doubt that they are among some of the best. Robert Parker described Hosanna as being “one of the superstars of the vintage”, an opinion with which we wholeheartedly concur. There is a distinctive style to the Moueix wines, which combines attractive, almost opulent, fruit, with a restraining structure. These are not showy by any means, but serious, delicious wines, with huge potential.

2011 Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol
£495 per case of 6 bottles in bond
A compact and initially reticent nose showing touches of red plum and exotic spice. Superbly balanced and yet still tightly wound, this will undoubtedly unfold with layers of complexity with time. The deftly handled tannins add to a wonderfully supple and elegant texture. Presence on the palate is persistent yet unforced. Drinking: 2016-2030

2011 Château Hosanna, Pomerol
£450 per case of 6 bottles in bond
Under the stewardship of J.P. Moueix this tiny 4.5 ha property has built a reputation for crafting exciting wines from its typical Pomerol terroir of clay and red gravel. Polished in style, with ripe black fruit underscored by coffee and chocolate notes, framed by intense yet silky tannins and a plush mouthfeel. The finish is long and seamless. Drinking: 2014-2028

2011 Château Belair-Monange, 1er Grand Cru Classé St-Emilion
 £370 per case of 6 bottles in bond

With vines over a hundred years old planted on the famous plateau and the perfectly south-east facing slopes next to Ausone, this property is something of an undiscovered gem. Attractively ripe and juicy berry fruit, counterbalanced by a vein of fresh acidity and perfectly balanced tannins. There is presence and weight to the wine, which is unforced and elegant. Drinking: 2018-2030

Always popular with our clients, Batailley is a property that has excelled this year, with recent investment clearly paying dividends. The 2011 vintage suits the classic style of this wine, making it a highly appealing and good value prospect.

2011 Château Batailley, Cru Classé Pauillac
£250 per case of 12 bottles in bond
One of the oldest estates in the Médoc producing a classic and typical Pauillac. Complex on the nose, with notes of cassis, chocolate and mocha, with a hint of cloves and cinnamon. Blackberries, chocolate notes and cream texture, with nuances of vanilla and nutmeg on the palate, there is a real plush richness to this wine. It is held together beautifully with very well integrated tannins and a soft vein of acidity running through the finish. An excellent wine that should not be missed! Drinking: 2018-2028

Bordeaux 2008-2011: Union des Grands Crus Tasting

Yesterday, three of our team were lucky enough to taste at the UGC tasting, hosted at the Somerset House in London. Sixteen of the leading Châteaux in Bordeaux showed their wines from the 2011 vintage, as well as the 2010-2008 vintages.

This was a great opportunity to see how the 2011s are coming on a month after the En Primeur tastings, as well as giving them the chance for some excellent comparisons. Firstly, directly comparing 2011 with 2008 (the vintage most likened to 2011 in terms of quality) and then comparing 2010 with 2009, arguably two of the greatest vintages of the last decade.

Al Luffingham, Paula Hunter and Hayley Wright give their opinions below:

“Well the good news is that the 2011s are showing even better than they did a month ago. With the exception of Léoville-Poyferré (which was very drying), all the 11s seem to have softened and fleshed out. They are still showing the same vibrant fruit and floral/violet notes, but the tannins are less aggressive. It was fascinating to compare them with their 2008 siblings. In general the 2008s showed well, with very attractive fruit, soft tannins, freshness and elegance. With the exception of Pontet Canet (a monolithic beast of a wine), I would happily drink any of the more-ish 08s now. The 11s in general seemed to have more concentration and if they continue to improve, seem set be superior to 2008. There were of course exceptions to this, for instance 2008 Château Bellevue, was an incredible wine and really quite close to 09 and 10 in terms of quality. Overall though I would come down in favour of 2011. The best 2011s in the room were Rauzan-Ségla, which they believe is close to 2010 (I see no reason to disagree) and Pontet-Canet which is a truly thrilling wine and definitely of First Growth quality.

Now, as well as the 2011 and 2008 wines showed, there is no doubt that the 2010 and 2009 wines are in a totally different league. I was rarely disappointed when tasting a 2011, but found without exception that when I tasted a 2010 or 2009 I was just blown away. It is a strange feeling to first taste a wine that is balanced, juicy, has excellent mouthfeel and good length, but to then taste a wine that absolutely blows the first wine out of the water.

This happened time and time again. I guess this is what 2010 and 2009 wines have – an almost indefinable wow factor. They have such concentration, such ripeness, such freshness, perfect harmony… but more than this they are just down right delicious. You would think that, given the overall high standard of wines in 2010 and 2009, it would be difficult to pick a favourite, but it turns out that it wasn’t. It is fair to say that I bit of a reputation in the office for loving all things Pontet-Canet and I can’t deny it. So it will come as no surprise that my pick of the day was Pontet-Canet. It wasn’t however the 100 point 2009 vintage, but the spellbinding, incredible, words-cannot-describe-how-much-I-love-this-wine 2010. Simply a different class!

Asked to pick a preference between 2010 and 2009 vintages, I would just about come down on the side of 2010 (they show a touch more detail), but anyone lucky enough to own wine from either vintage is a lucky person indeed.”  Al Luffingham

 “This tasting was a fabulous opportunity to re-visit the older vintages and taste the 2011s once again. It is a shame that the 2011s are getting such bad press, as I thought they showed very well, although obviously some more so than others! One of my very favourites of the tasting was 2011 Château Rauzan-Ségla, which showed great balance and depth, with an enticing nose and seductive palate.

2011 Château Pontet-Canet, was a dream: graceful, elegant, but with an underlying power. It was an absolute privilege to taste this vintage, followed by 2010, 2009 and 2008 Pontet-Canet. The 2008 blew me away, dare I say I liked it more than the 2009!

One final 2011 I really must mention was Château Branaire Ducru, which showed notes of wonderful sweet dark fruits and was plush, rounded and fresh, very appealing indeed.” Paula Hunter

“This was my first vertical tasting and I found it absolutely fascinating.  The 2011s showed much better than a few short weeks ago inBordeaux, with Angelus, Léoville-Poyferré and Pontet Canet standing out for me in particular. In general I found the 11s outshone the 08s with their vibrancy.  Other stars of the tasting for me were 2009 Rauzan-Ségla, 2010 Branaire Ducru, 2010 Léoville-Poyferré and 2009 Pontet-Canet – simply stunning wines.” Hayley Wright

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